Filmed on Monday, August 12th
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Our show notes can be found in the drop down section on YouTube, and on Ravelry. Comments and questions can be left in either place.
FOs (Finished Objects) 5:39:02
Glenda: Hint of Summer by Isabell Kraemer, knit in Holst Garn Coast in Skylight and Freesia
Overdyed Grapevine Lace Blanket. The pattern is ready for testing - thanks to Maike for pre-testing it! ;) Let me know if you want to test knit a full blanket in fingering weight.
Kelsey: Wearing - CLOTHES!
Ask Us Anything 20:38:11
2 questions this week:
When you have finished knitting with your yarn and it is in a cake , do you uncake it and put it back into a hank until the next project with the yarn?
Glenda: Depends on how much is left, but usually I just stash it in with the rest of my leftover yarn. I have bags of yarn that are vaguely divided by weight (DK and Worsted, Cottons, Bulky yarns, etc), so I try to put the leftovers in with something similar. I rewind/recake it later, when I decide what I’m going to do with it.
Kelsey: I only re-skein if it’s a substantial amount of yarn leftover that I don’t anticipate using in the next few months. Otherwise, like Glenda, I try to just stash it in with scraps or leftovers of vaguely similar weights/fibre content.
Kathleen 188 Asks:
Do you have a special method when joining a new ball of yarn to your work? Does it change with other fibres such as linen? And how do you sew in your ends?
Glenda: I spit join everything that is made with mostly natural fibres… I even try to do it with superwash yarns. If I can’t spit join, I try to join the piece at the edge of my work, or in an inconspicuous place if the piece is knit in the round (under the arm, on the back, etc). I add the new skein by alternating stitches as if I were working with two colours, and then go back and weave the ends in later.
If weaving in ends on linen or cotton, I will separate the individual plies of yarn and weave each one individually.
Kelsey: What Glenda said….. I join at end of rows/beginning of rounds always in plant or synthetic fibres. I’m a little less trusting of spit joining the superwash yarns though. Maybe I just need to modify my diet to make sure my saliva is in top joining form…. It’s probably all those green shakes Glenda drinks…. Or eat some cotton candy first.
WIPS (Works in Progress) 31:12:08
Xmas Socks on the CSM. West Yorkshire Spinner Signature 4-Ply in Holly Berry, the holiday colour from 2017. Toes and heels are our new Euro Baby Tenderfoot sock yarn, which is really much too nice for socks.
Crochet blanket, loosely based on Baby Blanket 95 by Becky Skuse. 80 granny squares all edged in white, different numbers of each colour. I am joining them together in rows, and then joining the rows together. I will add a few rounds of half-double and double crochets to make a border.
Giant Grapevine Blanket - I made this swatch and used it to work out the number of repeats I need to make an afghan size, and hopefully how much yarn it will use. I have cast on what I hope will be a 50” wide blanket.
Test Knit for Melissa Alexander-Loomis - Using Leizu Fingering from Julie Asselin and the dark purple is an unlabeled fingering I picked up at a Sweet Georgia studio Seconds sale several years ago.
Iggy by Sandrine C. in West Coast Colour Home Grown - a CVM, Merino and Romney Blend. I am sizing this one up because it didn’t come in my bust size but I was a sucker for the texture with the ribbed back. This is my Knit City KAL sweater at the moment. There might have to be a second with how quickly this one is working up.
Wash cloth scrubby knit with Red Heart Scrubby in Tropical. I do not recommend this yarn. I picked something out of my teeth while I was working with it and it was over 4 hours before I could get rid of the chemical taste that was left in my mouth. I was hoping this might be a fun alternative to using the plastic scrubbies that disintegrate and fall apart over time or the steel cotton pads people sometimes use to clean pots but after knitting with it for a half hour, I’m not so sure.
Sweater Segment 1:00:53
Our new regular feature talking about sweater construction, alterations, etc. Ask us questions in our Sweater Segment Thread and we will talk about it on the podcast.
Today’s topic: How to use gauge calculations to resize a sweater and/or knit it on a different gauge. Please note, this is not an exact science, and may not work out right the first time!
Last week we talked about how you can take your gauge per 1” and multiply it by a desired sweater size to work out how many stitches you need to cast on for a sweater. But what if you are working from an existing pattern? How does gauge help you here?
Option 1: I want to make this sweater, but my gauge doesn’t match the sweater’s gauge. What happens if I knit the sweater at my current gauge?
To work this out, you need to know the stitch count for the widest part of the sweater - usually this is the bust measurement. In top-down sweaters, this is most often the number of stitches you should have on the needles after taking off the sleeve stitches, and casting on any underarm stitches.
Flax is our sample pattern (you can download this one for free, and it is a great starter sweater). This is the point you are looking for (on page 3):
“The sleeves are on hold on waste yarn, and there are 80 (88, 92, 100, 108, 118, 126, 140, 150, 158, 166, 176, 194, 212, 230, 248, 262) body sts on the needles.”
Look for the number for your size. If you’re doing the size Large, for example, that would be 194 stitches.
The gauge for Flax is 18 sts/4” or 4.5sts/1”; 194 divided by 4.5 is 43.111 inches.
Let’s say your gauge is 20 sts/4” or 5 sts/1”. 194 divided by 5 is 38.8 inches. It doesn’t sound like that much of a change, but you’ve just lost 5” off your sweater!
So how many should you cast on? 43” x 5 sts/1” equals 215 sitches.
If you’re lucky, you can cheat, and follow the numbers for a different size - in this case you could use the XL numbers, and your sweater would be 42.4”… just make sure that’s enough ease for you. If you want to add the extra room, think about maybe adding 2 stitches extra under each arm, which gives you 216 stitches, and therefore 43.2”. (This is where you have to be willing to rip out if it doesn’t work!)
Unfortunately, this doesn’t work as well with all patterns, or if you’re at the top or bottom of the size ranges.
If you take this method to an extreme, you can use it to totally re-size a sweater - I did this with my Dasher Christmas Sweater a few years ago. The original sweater was for a child, with a gauge of 28 sts/4”. I used DK weight, 22sts/4”, and knit the age 4 size - instead of 27” around, the finished sweater was 37” around. This is not without it’s risks, however, so do this with caution! :)
Kelsey: In the luckiest, or easiest of scenarios where you need to re-gauge your sweater, you’ll have something happen like what happened for me with my Iggy sweater.
The largest bust size was a bit too small, but when I swatched I really preferred a looser fabric than what was recommended. The original gauge recommended that 20 sts should equal 4” and on my swatch, in the fabric I preferred, I was getting 18.5 sts. At the widest point of the sweater (my bust) the pattern said I should have 244 stitches. If you put that into a 20 sts to 4” formula I would be wearing a skin tight sweater but when I did the math with my 18.5 stitch gauge, I gained those 3 inches of positive ease I was looking for:
244 sts / (18.5/4) = 52.75 inches
Here’s a more complex situation:
I wanted to make Isabel Kraemer’s il grande favorito as I was experiencing some serious FOMO, but it did not go up to my bust size (I would need at least a 52-54 to get the recommended ease). To be difficult, I also didn’t want to knit it on such large needles with either thicker yarn or multiple strands held together (as called for in the pattern). I had a very specific yarn I wanted to work with. So I knit up a swatch with several needle sizes to find the fabric I most liked. I figured out what all the stitch counts in the original pattern were equal to in inches and then plunked my gauge numbers into those, allowing extra inches of room for my desired increase in size.
This approach definitely involves some math, and it isn’t fail safe, especially on a more complex design but if you have some patience and you’re willing to accept that you might need to re-work things a time or two, it can be a wonderful way to adapt a pattern for different weights of yarn and different body types.
STORE NEWS 1:16:05
Knit City Knit-A-Long
Knit a Sweater or Shawl to wear to Knit City (Needs to be a project that uses over 500m of yarn)
To enter, check out the Vendor’s List for Knit City. You need to use yarn from one of the vendors OR a pattern from one of the vendors or teachers who are coming:
examples include Andrea Mowry, Tin Can Knits, Josee Paquin, Puzzle Tree Yarns, Crafty JAKs, Julie Asselin, etc.
A secret: Holst Garn counts because we always bring Holst to Knit City! ;)
KAL Starts June 15th, ends on October 5th (Knit City Day 1!)
We will put up a thread for conversation; the FO thread will go up soon.
Stash dash has begun, check out the Knitgirllls on how to participate!
Glenda’s stash dash total: 4,220m
Kelsey’s stash dash total: 2,070m
Yarnageddon Update: After 7 months, we have ended with a truce. We all wanted the anniversary yarn, so we decided it was time to buy yarn again.
WCW Knit & Crochet Bingo!
We have taken down the Bingo boards; if you still want to register, email us for a bingo board. You need to declare your challenges when you register.
We are announcing the June and July winners!
Please contact us to claim your prizes! :)
All the details about our #wcwbingoalong are available in our Ravelry group, the Wet Coast Woolies.
Upcoming Knitted Knocker KAL!
In preparation for Breast Cancer Awareness month in October, we are partnering with the West Coast Knitters’ Guild to host a Knitted Knocker-a-Long in September.
Knitted and crocheted knockers are a handmade alternative to breast prostheses. Made from 100% cotton, the knockers are lightweight, soft, and in some cases more wearable that other alternatives. For more information, visit Knittedknockersofcanada.com, or KnittedKnockers.org.
There are Knitted Knocker groups all over the world, so if you want to take part and live outside of Canada or the US, we encourage you to contact a local group and make sure that your knockers meet their requirements for patterns, materials, etc. (The .org site has a list of international groups who would appreciate your donations).
We will give more details about the KAL in the next episode, but essentially it will just involve making a pair of knockers, either knit or crochet. We have prizes too! :)
Thanks for joining us today!
Online Only Shopping from March 20th, 2020
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